Here we go again. The trees are in their autumn beauty, but the week begins suspiciously like all the other weeks we’ve been through since March, with a slight surprise, a tempered annoyance: is it Monday again, so early? We walk painfully to work. We drive or cycle to work. We painfully cross the rooms to work, to look for work, to assess reality, to learn as best we can. We activate our cameras, our microphones. We do as we have for so long, and soon we are thinking of dinner, for it is dinner that will be our balm, that will console us against monotony, that will offer our best chance of joy.
This is braising time for some of us: a good day to do like Californian chef Cal Peternell and prepare chicken thighs (above) in a small bath of chicken stock, crisping the skin over the heat of the oven while allowing the liquid to gurgle and turn into a sauce. You could do the same with beef cheeks or brisket, as I learned to do in Alabama, visiting chef Frank Stitt at his Highlands Bar and Grill restaurant in Birmingham. You could do it with celery, thyme and white wine.
Even if today is perhaps that of a French Onion Mac and Cheese. Or for slow cooker spicy black bean and sweet potato chili. Do you feel tofu and green beans with crispy chili? Or chickpeas in coconut curry with pumpkin and lime?
I know I would like to do this weekday herb lemon chicken very soon, and that Japanese tuna noodle salad as well as. With apples everywhere, I’d like to cook apple and onion sausages. I would like bake applestoo!
There are thousands more recipes to consider waiting for you on Kitchen NYT. (Why here 19 Kid-Friendly Dishes That Really Can Be Ready In 30 Minutes!) See what you find there. Save the recipes you like. Evaluate them once you’ve cooked them. And if you want to leave yourself notes on it or want to share your notes with the wider community, do so.
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Now it’s a long day’s drive from pears and blue cheese, but it’s delicious: Hazel Cills’ report in Jezebel on “How America Invented the White Woman Who Loves Fall.”
So does Diana Ross sing?I’m gonna wash this man straight out of my hairlive in 1969, under an incredible wig.
Here’s Sheila Marikar in The New York Times Magazine, about chef Gaggan Anand, a complicated and brilliant character. It’s a good read.
Finally, my colleagues at the food counter are looking to speak to essential workers in the food industry — farmers and fishers, grocers and meat packers — about their experiences during the pandemic. It could be you or someone you know. Fill out or forward this form, and you or someone you know could be part of our effort to seek the truth about life right now and to understand what it was like on the front lines of the food supply. Thank you and I’ll be back on Wednesday.