This post is a lot like everything else the week after Thanksgiving—full of leftover tidbits. Only instead of turkey and stuffing and pecan pie, they happen to be random thoughts, a few stray questions, and two leftover recipes.
ON THANKSGIVING
In all honesty, Thanksgiving is not one of my favorite holidays. It comes at the time of year when I hunger to share what I’m so grateful for, yet the day itself inevitably seems to end in a whirlwind of commotion, frayed nerves (“what do you mean you didn’t move the turkey to the fridge!?”) and a half hour of glutinous gorging; the exact opposite of what I’m really craving. It’s not that I don’t love the people we spend Thanksgiving with—friends and family I adore—it’s just that by the time I raise my glass and say, “how about we all say a few words about what we’re thankful for this year,” everyone’s so spent they groan and roll their eyes.
Last year, Christopher and I boycotted the Big Thanksgiving and had one of the most rewarding on record. We had just seen the first pictures of our brand new daughter on Monday (we’d been matched with Noe the Friday before) and were still reeling with the news. So we made a simple Guatemalan meal of Pollo Jocon and ate it in the living room with her picture right next to us on the coffee table. It was perfect.
This year, Christopher and I came down with the flu on Wednesday—the day that our friends Catherine and Tim and their son James were coming into town. So we took it slow on Thursday (we actually asked Tim and Catherine to make themselves a salad and Christopher and I retired at 7:30 after putting Noe to bed . . . mortifying, I know) and Friday and finally enjoyed our feast on Saturday night. The necessitated delay actually seemed to keep any of us from getting too frenzied, and the six of us just kicked back and enjoyed a really relaxed weekend. And I’ll tell you something . . . flu or no flu, turkey or no turkey, seeing my little girl—so very THERE and 3–D—pucker up for a kiss (her Grandpa just taught her that 10 days ago) floods me with gratitude no matter what the circumstance.
ON THE TURKEY
We went with a heritage turkey for the third time this year and loved it—again. You sort of need to brace yourself the first time you see a heritage turkey. At first glance, it appears scrawny and bony. They aren’t the voluptuous busty creatures we’re used to seeing in the supermarkets, but oh, oh, oh do they have a rich, deep, complex flavor. And I just like the whole idea of supporting farmers who raise heritage breeds.
I also like the concept of brining, but I despise the whole act of brining (Christopher has a phobia of raw poultry that makes him run around like a you-know-what with its head cut off wiping everything down with disinfectant, and brining a 15–pound bird in the midst of that ruckus is no easy feat). So when I found the miso-rubbed turkey recipe in Bon Appetit two years ago, I was thrilled (the miso under the skin acts as a sort of self-brining agent and keeps the turkey super-moist). I’m also a big fan of grilling turkeys with a bit of smoke. If I had a charcoal grill, that’s what I’d use. But I don’t, so I use a smoker box. An added bonus (as if the luscious, flavorful meat and mahogany hue weren’t enough) is that it frees up the oven.
ON THE OTHER STUFF
Not being the biggest fan of Thanksgiving frees me up to cook whatever catches my fancy in a given year (see this year’s menu below). I never did like the green bean casserole or sweet potatoes with stay-puff marshmallows of my youth (sorry mom), so I feel no need to recreate them year after year. But I know I’m odd in that way, so it always intrigues me to hear what childhood remnants people feel they must have on their Thanksgiving tables.
When interviewing the chefs for Generous Pour, I found that each one carried their memories forth in a different way. Govind Armstrong, for instance, openly admitted to craving the canned cranberry stuff . . . everything about it—popping the can, sliding it out, cutting the slick cylinder into slices . . everything. Tracy Miller, on the other hand, took one of her favorite childhood dishes—sweet potatoes with marshmallow topping—and upgraded it to grown up status by roasting the sweet potatoes and making homemade marshmallows. Interesting.
ON THE BRAISY CHAIN
Told you this post was about tidbit thoughts. I know I said I’d do a Braisy Chain roundup the second and fourth Fridays of each month, and I will. But what with the redesign and the holiday and all, we haven’t had a whole lot of takers yet (worry not, Steph, I’ll get your Pot Roast up there!). So go on and post your braises with a link back here to Swirling Notions, and I’ll round ‘em up in the next couple of weeks.
LAST WORDS
I’ll leave you with these two (OK, three) questions to ponder:
* What is the one dish without which Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be Thanksgiving for you? Do tell . . . even if it involves Jell-O 
* Along the same self-effacing, embarrassing-confession theme, Katie over at Thyme for Cooking has a “skeletons in the pantry” meme going. So pop by and contribute your most mortifying holiday secrets from the kitchen.
* And, heck, if you feel like sharing what you are thankful for this year, by all means, do. I’d love to hear. But if you roll your eyes, I swear I’ll bop you through the computer screen ;-).
The Huber-Knepper Thanksgiving Feast of 2007
- Miso-rubbed, apple wood smoked heritage turkey
- Pancetta-sage gravy
- Three mushroom dressing (left the prosciutto out, due to the pancetta in gravy)
- Balsamic-braised cipolline onions with cranberries (went with chopped dried cranberries in lieu of pomegranates for sweetness, and so that this dish could stand in for cranberry relish)
- Roasted green beans with garlic and olives (went with green beans instead of fennel)
- Bruce Bread oatmeal rolls
- Pumpkin mascarpone pie
WHAT I’M DOING WITH THE LEFTOVERS
{ Bread and Turkey Salad with Bitter Greens }
This savory take on panzanella is inspired by the Zuni Chicken Bread Salad. It’s a nice, fresh spin on leftover turkey, bread and gravy.
1/2 pound day-old bread, crust removed
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons shallot, sliced
2 tablespoons currants
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 pound cooked turkey, shredded
sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons gravy
10 cups mixed greens (like radicchio, frisee and arugula)
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
2 tablespoons kalamata olives, sliced
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Break the bread into 1-1/2 inch chunks and toast. Transfer to a large metal bowl.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium low heat with the sliced garlic and shallots until they just begins to sizzle. Toss with the bread pieces, currants and one tablespoon of vinegar.
4. Whisk together the gravy, remaining olive oil and vinegar.
5. Add the greens, nuts and olives to the bread bowl and toss everything with the dressing. Salt and pepper to taste and place in the oven for 8 minutes, then mound on a large platter.
6. Top with the shredded turkey.
Pair with: An earthy Syrah or Pinot Noir
Serves 6
{ Turkey Cassoulet }
4 thick slices bacon, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 Italian sausage links, cut in quarters
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup chicken stock
1 pound turkey, shredded
2 cans white beans, drained
1 can tomato puree
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
2 cups bread crumbs, toasted
2 tablespoons parsley, minced
1. Preheat oven to 350. Cook bacon in a large Dutch oven over a medium burner. Remove when done and brown onion, sausages and 1/2 of the garlic, about 10 minutes.
2. Add chicken stock to pan and scrape up any bits leftover. Add turkey, beans, tomato puree, bay leaf and thyme. Bake in the oven uncovered for 30 minutes, adding chicken broth if necessary to keep moist.
3. Mix bread crumbs with remaining garlic and minced parsley in another bowl and sprinkle on top of cassoulet. Bake for another 20 minutes. Remove, push down breadcrumbs so they are slightly moistened and bake another 20 minutes.
Pair with: A robust Syrah or Merlot
Serves 6
17 Comments
Homemade cranberry sauce . . . steph
Glad you and husband are feeling well again. For me, I miss most my moms china dishes. I think she got them from saving S&H stamps, or was it from opening a checking account years and years ago? Plain white with a ring of black right next to a ring of gold around the outer edge. Her cooking is memorable, but the special occasion of using the china hit me this year. Oh and the burbon whipped topping for the pecan pie she makes…
It’s gotta be the dressing–the celery/onion/sage flavored hot moist buttered bread. Yep, it’s the dressing.
How fun to see everyone’s favorites! And I love how passionate you all are about each of them.
Steph . . . You know, even with all my blabbering about not being a Thanksgiving girl, I did miss the cranberry sauce.
C’tina . . . What a lovely, lovely memory. I always forget until too late that we, too, have wonderful China (passed down to Christopher from his step-mom). The way you describe how special the memory is to you makes me want to pay more attention next time and plan ahead so that Noe can have that same sense of magic.
Rosemary . . . Yum. That’s my favorite part too. I was sad to see the last of the leftovers go last night (the three mushroom dressing was absolutely delicious). Here’s a question . . . is there really a difference between “dressing” and “stuffing,” aside from the location?
I must have my grandmothers cornbread & biscuit stuffing. I make it every year for all of my friends!
One memory for me is that my grandmother kept a turkey I made out of a pine cone when I was in Kindergarten. Every Thanksgiving, the old bedraggled thing would come out of her china cabinet and take it’s place on the table. I wish I had it - she passed away a few years ago. I’d have to say my favorite food at her dinner table would be pecan pie. Gotta love southern women and the way they cook. I loved the story about the dishes and I remember S&H Green Stamps! steph
Lia, I’m so relieved to read that an American doesn’t like green bean casserole or that yukky sweet potato marshmallow thing - like it wasn’t already sweet enough before some bright spark put marshmallows on top. We had them for Christmas dinner in Washington State last year and I was amazed that those 2 dishes are such staples of celebrations involving food in the US. I’ll go with your wonderful version of the Zuni Cafe bread salad. We had the real thing a couple of months ago and it was one of the highlights of our time in SF. Happy Holidays to you all, and a belated Happy Birthday to Noe. Is she walking yet? My nephew who is the same ages is still just crawling.
Gretchen Noelle . . . Holy moly does THAT sound decadent. We’ll have to tap you for the recipe!
Stephanie . . . I so remember those turkey pinecones (do you think pinecones are just naturals to become turkey crafts or that there was some sort of national pinecone turkey movement in the 60s and 70s?). You’ll have to have your little one make a brand new one for your table.
Judy . . . I’m so glad you’re trying out my ‘mock’ Zuni salad (and that you’ve had the good fortune to taste the real deal). Let me know what you think. And, just like your nephew, Noe isn’t quite walking yet. We keep thinking she’s going to make the leap (proverbially) . . . she’s cruising like a monkey from one piece of furniture to the next, and she’s literally running while holding on to one of our fingers (and loosely at that). But she hasn’t quite mustered up the courage to let go yet. Yet another stage of Nostalgiancholy for me too . . . on one hand, I’m so excited for her to walk and become more independent. On the other, I mourn the day she walks on her own and becomes more independent. Ah, the split personality of motherhood.
As a kid I liked the green bean casserole and the sweet potatoes with marshmallow.
But as an adult, no. I do love sweet potatoes cooked in many other ways and fresh green beans barely cooked with an olive oil sauce. Have to admit, those crunchy onion things that go on top of the gbc are kinda good. 
There is a thread about his on the nursing bulletin board I frequent . . .most say “NO” to the gbc. steph
It’s a toss up between the stuffing and the cranberry - I need them both! And they both have to be homemade. This year I went extra crazy and baked the bread, too. I don’t know what it is, but when onion and celery hit butter, bread, and chicken stock….magic!
And, this year I am thankful for the wonderful year I have had with my husband…but somewhat sad that I am no longer a “newly wed”
So glad to hear you’re feeling better, Lia! I agree with other commenters that the stuffing is what makes my Thanksgiving. My mom’s vegetarian stuffing, to be exact. I crave it at other times of the year but won’t let myself make it so it will still be special on Thanksgiving.
This year, I am thankful as always for my wonderful family and friends, my health and my home. One new thing I am thankful for this year is the opportunity to start my own preschool from my scratch and design it exactly the way I want it…something I never dreamed I’d have the chance to do.
It is too hard to choose just one dish. As I read other’s comments I too think about the wonderful stuffing my mother-in-law made. Stuffing, mashed potatoes, moist turkey, homemade cranberry sauce . . a little of all in the same bite.
As to being thankful - I’m very thankful the weather is sunny since that keeps my husband working in the woods. Usually winters are tough on seasonal workers and we like the sun to shine. I’m thankful my #2 son is working with us (although I wish he would go to college). That my #1 son has his Bachelor’s Degree and a good job and a sweet girlfriend. That my daughter’s Senior year is going smoothly (so far) although it is costly (just bought her Senior Pictures at $700). And thankful for our little guy, who turned 6 this year and started Kindergarten. He is a barrel of laughs, just like his dad. Which is good since his mom is a hermit. 
steph
Foodette . . . Holy moly, are you seriously saying that you baked the bread you used IN the stuffing? So impressive! And what a wonderful thing to be thankful for. Don’t worry . . . a good marriage (which it sounds like yours is) is like a good wine . . . it just gets even better over time.
Elisabeth . . . Wow, you started your own preschool?! That must feel so fulfilling. Good for you!
Steph . . . I like your point about all the flavors in one bite–I’m a mixer myself. And I’d hardly say you’re a hermit . . .
Lia - I never let my food touch as a kid . . . my dad would always say that it all touches in my tummy but I would snap back that my tummy doesn’t have taste buds. Just gotta let kids be kids. They won’t starve. As to hermit status - you just met me. ;-)steph
You know, I love Thanksgiving, but this year, after all was said and done, it was kind of like, all that build up, all those three days of cooking for what, a meal that doesn’t lasy very long. Followed by the forcing of pie… I don’t know. It seems something could be different, but I don’t know what that different is. I don’t mind all the work, but it seems like the climax of the day is dinner, and that’s what shouldn’t be. Somehow. Good thing we get a Thanksgiving every year to try again.
The dish I can’t live without is my mom’s stuffing. As many times as I’ve tried to make stuffing myself, it’s never the same as hers, so now I simply ask her to bring it. Works perfectly. It’s a simple celery/onion/bread stuffing, but it has her seasoning and her touch.
That cassoulet looks wonderful, by the way. I may be using that for some of the leftover turkey that made it into the fridge.
The turkey is truly the star of the show for me, without it there would be no feast, and no leftovers to make turkey soup or that fabulous looking cassoulet you made. I have to remember that for next year.
Steph . . . What a retort!
Erika . . . I so hear you. That’s EXACTLY how I feel about the day. I’ll be curious to hear if you come up with any remedies.
Izzy’s Mama . . . And your fabulous looking soup is tempting me to brave another turkey again next year!